The Kalna Rajbari Temple Complex, West Bengal, India

Kalna (or Ambika Kalna) is a small town on the bank of the Hooghly River (Ganges) nearly 82 kms from Kolkata. Not many people may be aware of it, but Kalna is a remarkable temple town and contains some of the finest specimens of Bengal terracotta architecture.

The Maharajas of Bardhaman built a number of temples here in the 18th century, which are adorned with intricate terracotta tiles depicting images from the mythologies and daily life. Most of these temples are arranged in the Rajbari Complex maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

We spent an hour walking inside the temple complex, appreciating the many architectural styles on display. Worship is still offered to the deities in these temples, but one must reach there before noon, since the deities are taken inside and the shrine rooms are closed for a few hours in the afternoon. Overall, its a great place to visit on a weekend trip from Kolkata.

The Kalna Rajbari Temple complex has been nicely maintained by the ASI. There is a central garden around which the various temples are arranged.

The Pratapeshwar Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is the first temple that you see when you enter the Rajbari Complex. The temple is named after King Pratap Chand. It was built by his widow, in the name of her deceased husband, in the year 1849 AD.

The temple is built in the Rekha deul style with a square base and curvilinear shikhara.

The temple has rich terracotta ornamentation. Although the temple is small, it has the most intricate and well-preserved reliefs of all the temples in the complex.

Scenes from daily life, as well as deities and tales from mythologies.

Krishna flanked by his principal wives - Rukmini and Satyabhama. The mermaid in the image is intriguing. It has been depicted in the European style holding a horn. Could this be a colonial influence, since the temple was built after the arrival of the Europeans?

There is an octagonal Ras-mancha next to the Pratapeshwar temple

The Ras-mancha is an octagonal, roofless, brick-built structure with 24 arches. The autumnal ras-lila of Lord Krishna used to be staged here.

The Lalaji Temple dedicated to Radha-Krishna. It is a three-storeyed, brick-built, Pancha-vimshati ratna (25 ratnas or pinnacles) temple, erected in 1739 by Braja Kishori Devi, the wife of Maharaja Jagat Ram. It is the oldest temple in the Rajbari Complex.

The char-chala (four sloping roofs) Nat-mandapa (dancing hall) in front of the temple.

Garuda on a pillar. The symbolism of a bird deity perched on top of a pillar can be found in cultures around the world.

The idol of Krishna (about to be taken inside since the darshan hours are over). The idol of Radha has already been taken inside. Notice the rich terracotta ornamentation on the arches.

The facades of the temple are decorated with terracotta ornamentation.

A row of five brick-built at-chala (eight sloping roofs) temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, built in the 19th century.

The towering Krishna Chandraji Temple in the distance.

 

The Krishna Chandraji Temple, dedicated to Krishna and Radha, is another magnificent brick-built Pancha-vimsati ratna (25 pinnacles) temple built by Raja Trilokchand in 1751-55.

It has an elongated ek-chala (single sloping roof) mandapa or jagamohana in front with three arched entrances. It is interesting that triple entrances are a common element of temple architecture found in cultures across the world.

The side-view of the Krishna Chandraji Temple. There are only 5 Pancha-vimsati ratna (25 pinnacles) temples in West Bengal and 3 of them are located in Ambika Kalna, of which 2 are in the Rajbari Complex.

Terracotta ornamentation on the facade.

The Vijay Vaidyanath Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, was built by King Trilokchand. It is an at-chala (eight sloping roofs) temple with triple arched entrances. According to local lore, King Trilokchand’s mother had prayed to Lord Shiva for a son. When her wish was fulfilled, she instructed Trilokchand to build a Shiva temple after he became the king.

The front view of the Vijay Vaidyanath Temple, with its triple arched entrance adorned with terracotta tiles.